31 Dezember 2009

In March 1944 eighty percent of Frankfurt was destroyed by allied bombs. The historical area of Sachenhaus where Mere lives has many of the old buildings interspersed with new dwellings where previous ones were hit. Other parts of Frankfurt are entirely post-war. This morning we explored the new area, the skyscrapers (apparently unique in Germany), the opera house and the up-market shops.



As happened over Christmas Germany is now closed for 3 and a half days.

We went to a most enjoyable New Years's Eve dinner party at an Aussie/German couple's home. Great company, lively conversation and wonderful food. One traditional dish was raclette cooked in individual coupelles. We also had fondue, baked apple and too much wine.

Fireworks are sold freely everywhere and we've been hearing explosions for several days. At midnight, a couple of dozen people gathered in the square and randomly set off crackers in an uncharacteristically random way. In was dangerous, fantastic and somehow unGerman. A man called Jorge offered me a glass of champagne and a beanie. I accepted both and we partied on.

Off to Florence tomorrow. Tschuus!

Wednesday 30th Dezember

This morning we went to the local, very new swimming pool. Its design is a cross between an old fashioned spa and a modern Olympic pool. You move through a series of doors into your own tiny change room before being ejected out the other side into the water.
The swimmers were very sedate: every single one breaststroking languidly, stoically, grimly along. No-one's hair got wet except at the edges, no showing off jocks powered past, there was no lane range aimed at slow swimmers.
The key to your room came with a bracelet to wear while you swam - no need to hide it in your towel or stick it in your togs. They had thought of everything.
The showers were 'all in together girls, never mind the weather girls' (just don't check me out quite so obviously, OK?). The Germans don't seem to be worried about privacy or modesty. Meredith tells me that the famous Frankfurt kitchen sometimes included a toilet.

Tomorrow is New Year's Eve and we are invited to a party. On New Year's Day we fly to Florence for 5 days where temperatures are expected to reach a balmy 11 degrees. Tropical.

Tuesday 29th, Eau de Cologne
We rose at sparrows' and travelled to Cologne taking the scenic route along the Rhine. Germany is picturesque in places but the prominence of industrial sites prevents it being as pretty as France.

After two and a half hours in the amazing, glowering cathedral (where I briefly forgot that I am an atheist and lit a candle for Maddles), we had a quick coffee.


Then it started to rain. We had a choice between shelling out for a brolly in the colours of the Cologne Fussball (Soccer) Club, or for the same money, visiting a Roman sewer. It was a no brainer: I am travelling with Dr. History after all.


For every shower of rain after that there was a Roman museum to shelter in so I am now the full bottle on the Roman occupation of Germania with a Major in Waste Disposal Systems.

After a couple of glasses of Koelsch, the local beer, a box of noodles and a coffee it was back on the ICE to Frankfurt.

And did I buy any Eau de Cologne? Ja. Fumf bottles. 4711? Ja again. Naturlich.

Wiesenbad

Yesterday (Sunday) we visted the spa town of Wiesenbad. It's an attractive place but, like the rest of Germany, pretty much still closed. We explored what we could: the cathedral, a spa, the old town which was best seen from the top of the ferris wheel. Apart from that we graviated between coffee shops keeping out of the cold.

I was hoping to see a regiment of hungry Germans emerge from their homes this morning in quest of fresh supplies. There has been no bread, milk, fruit, vegies or meat for 4 days. But things are still quiet down there on Schwantaler Strasse.

Jim has taken Mads to the pool and this afternoon we plan to hit the shops for bargains.
Tomorrow, maybe Cologne where I should be able to get some Eau de.